I traveled by train on my first night from Shanghai to Suzhou and was delighted to find that my hotel was just across the street from the lovely Master of the Nets or Fisherman's Garden as it is sometimes called.   In the summertime there are lovely cultural performances in the evening which we went to see on our group tour in 2002.   From Suzhou I caught a 26 hour train to Guilin.  In 2000  I was almost the only person on the train without a cell phone.  My train cabin with 3 other people was quite comfortable and lovely with lace and velvet.   My Chinese travelling companions were very kind and a few could speak a little bit of English.